LDV Problems

Conventional wisdom suggests that a fusible link failure is most likely to be caused by either an overloading of the circuit in question, or a short-circuit in that same circuit. The starter motor of a car (especially a modern diesel) consumes a lot of power to make it turn the engine over and that means a lot of load being placed on the electrical circuit. The fusible link is there to act as a fuse and sacrifice itself to prevent damage to the rest of the starter-motor system.

Sometimes, the fusible link can blow by chance or if there’s a momentary spike in the power entering the circuit. If the link continues to blow after being replaced, then you need to start searching for a short-circuit or another problem with the wiring.

Let’s start with the concept of a dealership charging for a problem that is probably a warranty claim in the first place. Warranty repairs shouldn’t cost the owner anything, so the dealership is skating on thin ice in the first place.

But secondly, this doesn’t sound like a problem at all. In fact, I’d say it’s perfectly normal behaviour. What’s happening is that the car’s computer is looking at how much fuel the vehicle has used in the immediate past, and calculating how far you can go on the fuel you have left, at that rate of consumption. When you switch from stop-start running to highway driving, your consumption per 100km falls. When the computer notices this, it recalculates how far you can go with your reduced consumption, and the estimated range on the trip-computer goes up.

Fuel range is the inverse of fuel consumption, when consumption goes down, range goes up. And since the car’s computer models the range based on your recent consumption rate, highway running will usually cause the range to creep up. Eventually the range will plateau and then begin to fall. When you hit the city, the range will begin to fall more quickly. The dealership should have been able to explain this to you rather than threatening to charge for taking a look at it.

It’s not a problem and is actually completely normal. What’s happening is that the car’s computer is detecting that the engine or transmission (or both) are hot enough that they need a little extra cooling. That’s why the electric fan comes on. It stays on for a minute or so after the engine is shut down to try to bring down temperatures a little more in anticipation that you may return to the car and restart it in the next few minutes.

It’s not that the vehicle is overheating, but modern cars are all about efficiency and thermal management is a big part of that. The fan is more likely to come on if you’ve just spent a few minutes idling at a red light or driving slowly through a car-park to your eventual parking spot. Low (or no) speeds mean there’s little to no air passing through the car’s radiator, so the fan switches on to create some airflow of its own.

The first question is have you tried changing the setting on the throttle controller? The U4 setting on this unit is slightly towards the lazy side of throttle response. Maybe a switch to U8 or U9 will give the throttle response the perkiness you are looking for.

A poor quality snorkel can definitely impede airflow and, therefore, power production, but so can a poor tune, dirty fuel filter, worn injectors, worn fuel pump, a blocked DPF, gummed up intake manifold and about a thousand other things. Is the turbocharger working properly and all the associated plumbing tight and leak-free? This can also cause a loss of power due to lost turbo-boost.

You really need to have a fiddle with the throttle controller to determine whether the problem as you see it is a lack of throttle response or, indeed, a lack of performance in an outright sense. For the record, 11.1 litres per 100km is not, depending on how and where you drive, unusual for this vehicle.

Any time the engine revs up but the car doesn't go any faster, you're a fair chance to have an issue with either the automatic transmission or the clutch in a manual car.

If an automatic doesn't accelerate when you give it some throttle, our suspicions would be with either the torque converter, something inside the transmission itself or the unit is low on transmission fluid. If a manual car does the same thing, it's usually a poorly adjusted or worn out clutch that is slipping, allowing the engine to rev up, but not transfer that power to the wheels.

Your car would have come with a five-year/130,000km warranty, so if it hasn't exceeded that kilometre limit, it should still be under factory cover. So make sure LDV fixes it as per the warranty terms and conditions.

Your vehicle is interesting as it continues to use the old-tech hydraulic power steering, rather than the newer, more efficient electric power steering. This newer technology is simpler and potentially more reliable, but is used mainly because it saves a few drops of fuel.

In the case of your car, noise from a power-steering pump is often caused initially by low fluid. The power steering fluid doesn't just provide the hydraulic pressure to help you steer the car, it also lubricates the moving parts of the pump. If this fluid runs low, that lubrication doesn't happen, and the pump will wear quite quickly to the point where it seizes. It's a bit of a surprise that such a new vehicle would have this problem, but any sort of leak in the power steering system can lead to this low fluid level and the problems it causes. If you're lucky, the system might just need a top-up to make the noise go away. But if damage and wear has already started to occur, then the pump might be on the way out.

It's worth mentioning that your car is covered by a five-year/130,000km warranty. So, provided you haven't exceeded that mileage and the car has a documented service history, you may find that the problem is actually worthy of a warranty claim.

The bigger question is why you didn't just turn around and drive straight back to the dealership. A brand-new car like this should not have any of these problems, and it's a sad comment on the attention to detail (or lack of it) demonstrated by the dealership that pre-delivered the vehicle when all these things should have been checked. Let's not forget, this is what the dealer delivery charge is supposed to sort out.

The steering wobble is possibly a wheel with a missing balancing weight, particularly as it only appears at a particular road speed. But the steering wheel button issue could be a fault with the wheel itself, the on-board body computer that controls all this stuff or even the software that drives it.

Straight back to the dealer and don't take "they all do that" for an answer.

This is either a sensor problem (that tells the car the door has closed and the step needs to retract) or a problem with the actuator that physically reels the step in. Either way, it's an obvious warranty claim.

If the car can't be driven (to the dealership) with the step extended, you could try holding the locking button on the remote for 30 seconds which will sometimes reset the vehicle's body computer and the car will revert to normal operation. Apart from that, arrange for the dealership to pick the vehicle up.

Assuming there's nothing wrong with the engine causing it to lose power under load, this sounds like a case of the conditions causing the engine to struggle. Soft sand has a lot of friction and this literally grabs the tyres, causing the engine to load up and revs to fall. It's like a big, invisible hand grabbing the wheel and stopping it from turning freely. As you apply more power to counter this, the engine revs up, the wheels spin and the vehicle sinks even further into the sand and the cycle starts over again. Some cars with sensitive throttles are more prone this.

Experienced sand drivers know that the solution to this is to make the vehicle 'float' over the sand, rather than bulldoze through it. The best way to do that is to lower your tyre pressures. This allows the tread to 'bag out' and produce a larger footprint. And a bigger tread surface means more chance of staying on top of the sand rather than buried in it. It sounds simple but it really does work. Think of it as the difference between standing on thin ice in a pair of flat shoes versus stilettos.

How much pressure should you drop. We'd go from the usual on-road tyre pressures to about 18psi as a first step and then 15psi if the conditions are still causing problems. In extreme cases, you can go right down to 12 or even 10psi provided you're careful and keep your speed down. Don't forget to re-inflate the tyres once you're back on the bitumen.

Beyond that, if the problem is engine related, then a scan at your dealership should throw up a code to guide the mechanic on what's wrong. The vehicle is under warranty, so don't be backward in coming forward.

It's less common than it once was, but still not unknown for a particular car to be more problematic than the ones that came off the production line either side of it. Presumably, you've just been unlucky and got lumped with the car that had dud components from the start. Hopefully, though, replacing those parts will be a permanent fix.

LDV vehicles are definitely built to a price, and overall quality, materials and fit and finish are not as good as some better-known brands. But, like any of the Chinese manufacturers, LDV's quality is on the up and the later the build-date, the better. Perhaps that's why your partner's newer LDV has been more reliable.

The best advice is to keep a very close eye on the vehicle and make a note of anything that seems amiss. Then, take these potential faults up with the dealership you use as a way of alerting them to any pre-existing conditions. That way, even once the five-year,/130,000km warranty has expired, those faults will still be fixed under the LDV warranty terms and conditions as they occurred while the warranty was still current.